Conference Preview: In the Shadow of Chenin

.

.

Today we have a guest post from Jim Clarke, U.S. Marketing Manager for Wines of South Africa. Jim gives us a preview of his upcoming presentation, “In the Shadow of Chenin.” This session will be presented at the 46th Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators. The conference is scheduled for August 10-11 in Coachella Valley (Indian Wells, CA). 

Across the U.S., in bistros and other places with smaller wine lists, if there’s only one South African wine included, it’s likely to be Chenin Blanc; the grape has definitively taken up a position as South Africa’s flagbearer. But on retail shelves and other spots with a little more room, many other South African wines are finding homes as well.

.

.

Among the more planted varieties Sauvignon Blanc, which makes up more than ten percent of South Africa’s vineyards, has enjoyed a two-side role in the U.S market. Imports are strong, but largely in the form of lower-tier brands that are not necessarily marketed as South African. Meanwhile, restaurant wine directors have increasingly realized that an old cliché about South African wine, that it’s “a little bit Old World, a little bit New” rings particularly true with Sauvignon. It doesn’t have the full, in-your-face tart fruit and grass of a Kiwi version, but it’s also more expressive than the citrus and mineral expressions of Sancerre. This makes it a great by-the-glass wine in markets where both those styles are popular, and this saves restaurants from having two Sauvignon Blancs open and losing their freshness. As the popularity of Sauvignon Blanc continues to grow, and especially in response to recent supply issues, these quality-driven South African Sauvignon Blancs are expanding their place in the market.

Back in South Africa more and more premium versions are appearing as more maritime areas focus their attention on the grape. Constantia and Durbanville, both a short drive from Cape Town, have made it a specialty, as has Darling, further up the West Coast. Some of the fastest growing areas for Sauvignon Blanc are in the Cape South Coast region, an area little explored for winegrowing at all until deregulation in 1992 removed a quota system that largely forbid planting there. Within the region Elgin is South Africa’s coolest climate winegrowing area, but Sauvignon Blanc plantings dot the coast all the way down to Elim in Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of the African continent. These windswept vineyards produce intense Sauvignon Blancs with a strong saline character.

.

.

Chardonnay falls in line just behind Sauvignon Blanc as South Africa’s fourth most-planted white variety, but emerged almost out of nowhere in the 1970s, when there were less than 6,000 Chardonnay vines in the whole country. It was heavily associated with the estate producers who drove quality production as the country emerged out of apartheid in the 1990s and has increasingly lived up to their aspirations. Relatively small appellations like Elgin and Hemel-en-Aarde have earned outsized reputations for their Chardonnays, but so has Stellenbosch, a much larger region with corresponding more hectares of the grape.

As in other places around the world, South African Chardonnay endured a phase where oak and weight showed more in the glass than the quality and character of the fruit, but that has since passed, a process accelerated by the poor state of the South African rand; imported oak barrels have become prohibitively expensive, leading South African producers to scale back new oak use and explore alternative aging vessels. The resulting wines are more balanced and elegant, but still offer a pleasing weight and texture on the palate. Together with Chenin Blanc, South African Chardonnay demonstrates winemakers’ interest in developing mouthfeel and texture in white wines without sacrificing freshness. This is particularly true with the country’s unoaked Chardonnays. Unoaked New World Chardonnay is often a light, crisp affair, but careful control of the fermentation process and lees work lend South African examples great presence on palate. The resulting wines can still appeal to more traditional Chardonnay fans while often eliciting a response from others along the lines of, “I don’t normally care for Chardonnay, but this!”

.

.

If you’re paying attention, you’ll notice we’ve skipped a grape somewhere. Chenin Blanc is South Africa’s most planted grape, and Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay rank third and fourth among whites. Quietly occupying the number two spot is Colombard. Varietal examples are rarely seen, however, as much of the grape goes either into bulk wine or brandy production. That is changing, and a handful of exciting examples of premium Colombard have begun to appear, especially from old vine vineyards where yields have dropped and the fruit is more concentrated. The wines are often lighter-bodied and more aromatic than the country’s Chenins and Chardonnays, but display depth and a rounded, pearly texture. There are also a few exciting examples of Colombard being used as a base for Cap Classique – traditional method sparkling wine – and a few experts have suggested this could become an intriguing niche within the fast-growing Cap Classique category.

There’s beyond Chenin, and there’s also beyond the top four planted varieties we just looked at. As winemakers explore further they’re considering and embracing a number of other varieties, mostly of Mediterranean origin. For now, these plantings are small – grapes like Clairette Blanche and Grenache Blanc occupy less than two percent of the country’s vineyards – but there are plenty of alternative varieties for the curious wine drinker to explore.

Jim’s session—In the Shadow of Chenin—is scheduled for Thursday, August 11th at 8:45 am as part the 46th Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators, to be held August 10-11 in Coachella Valley (Indian Wells, CA).

About the speaker: Jim Clarke is the U.S. Marketing Manager for Wines of South Africa. Prior to joining WOSA in 2013 Jim was the wine director at Armani Ristorante and Megu, both in New York City. He is also a writer, regularly contributing to a number of trade and consumer publications including World of Fine Wine, Club Oenologique, and Fortune. In 2020 Jim received the International Louis Roederer Wine Writer Award for Feature Writing and in August of that year Wine Business Monthly named Jim as a Wine Industry Leader of the Year. Jim is the author of The Wines of South Africa, published by Infinite Ideas as part of the Classic Wine Library in July 2020.

Conference Preview: Argentina: A Discovery Awaits

Photo via: winesofargentina.org

Photo via: winesofargentina.org

Today we have a guest post from Veronica Kathuria, CSW. Veronica gives us a preview of her upcoming presentation, “Argentina: A Discovery Awaits!” This session will be presented at the 46th Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators. The conference is scheduled for August 10-11 in Coachella Valley (Indian Wells, CA). 

The quality of Argentine wine is better than ever. The uniqueness of the grapes; the immense diversity of flavors, aromas, and textures; the long winemaking history; the country’s unique terroir; and the constant bet on innovation and sustainability as the engines change, are thriving the Argentine wine industry and succeeding in producing the best wines in its history.

Naturally distinctive wines: Argentina has a wealth of natural diversity featuring different climates, geographies and cultures that have positioned the country as the fifth world’s largest wine producer, and number one for Malbec. Argentinian wineries have more than 500 years of trajectory. Viticulture was introduced to Argentina as early as the 16th century and winemakers started to develop its vast extension. Producers have pushed the wine frontier, growing grapes wide across the territory; each wine region printing its own geological characteristics that define the wines’ identity. 92.2% of the vine surface produces grapes for wine, while 7.8% are grape varieties suitable for fresh consumption.

Argentina has vineyards in eighteen provinces, which gives rise to five wine-growing regions: North, Cuyo, Center, Patagonia, and the Atlantic Region. Non-traditional wine regions are also gaining relevance in the center and northeast of the country.

Photo via: winesofargentina.org

Photo via: winesofargentina.org

Other landscapes must be added to the vineyards along the snow-capped peaks of the Andes: the high-altitude deserts with cardones in the North; the lost vineyards in the Central valleys of Córdoba, where the tendrils climb the thorny native forest; or, further south, the few rows of vines in the Andean Region, in Patagonia, that contrast with the leafy forests of coihues and cypresses. Each area has been studied in detail by Argentine winemakers and agronomists; they define the identity of wines within a framework of natural purity and provide a sum of diversities that highlights the wide range of Argentine viticulture.

Exceptionally diverse wines: In 2021, Argentina’s wineries harvested 2.2M kilos of grapes in 480K acres of vineyards. All told, Argentina grows over 200 varieties and produces a range of still and sparkling wines; total annual production includes 59% red wine, 23% rosé, and 18% white wine.

An endless range of expressions—altitude and wines: The climate, soil conditions and variability, altitude, the winemaking practices, and the ever-present influence of the Andes Mountain range all influence the quality and character of Argentine wine. Most Argentine vineyards sit at 4,500 feet/1,372 meters above sea level or higher; the altitude helps to produce fresh, textured and age-worthy wine.

Not many countries in the world can boast altitude as a condition of terroir, and they certainly tend to be the exception rather than the rule. Pushing the limits above 4,430 feet/1,350 meters asl, up to 1,500 4,921 feet/1,500 meters asl in Mendoza (Cuyo), and with a ceiling of 10,922 feet/3,329 meters asl in Jujuy (North Region), there is a universe of increasing diversity.

Furthermore, the higher you go, the steeper the slopes get, and the soil is ever newer—while its composition changes depending on when it comes into contact with rivers. More wineries are investing in exploring their soils to discover what can distinguish one micro terroir from another to obtain the best wines ever.

Photo via: winesofargentina.org

Photo via: winesofargentina.org

About Malbec Argentino: Malbec is—by far—the most widely consumed Argentine variety domestically and overseas. Its contemporary emergence on the international viticultural scene is thanks to the hard work of the community of Argentine wine producers that restored the allure of a grape that had almost fallen into oblivion.

While Malbec vineyards spread across the world, Argentinians have been working to make its reds even more precise and extending the range of styles. The dedication and loyalty to the development of Malbec has resulted in a range of expert knowledge. The combination of soils and altitude, in addition to other climatic factors, creates a puzzle when determining the character of the resulting terroirs. Hence, Malbec has become the best means of representing the spectrum of landscapes in Argentina. As a result of these conditions, this variety stands out primarily for its quality; maintaining, vintage after vintage, a high standard that distinguishes us in the world.

Wine lovers can taste many styles of Malbec—from raw wines, aged wines, floral and herbal wines to robust, classic styles. The new breeds of Malbec reveal the grape’s true diversity: a very expressive red wine with easy-going textures that never feels harsh on the palate, with fruity freshness and great precision.

Sustainability and innovation: Argentina continues to move forward and reinvent global wine traditions and practices. The country’s wine industry is committed to paving the way to a more sustainable and environmentally friendly way to produce great wines with +2.5K hectares devoted to biodynamic wines; more than 60 Argentine producers focusing on developing organic grapes; and (at last count) 76 wineries with organic certification.

Unfold Argentina´s infinite range: Who is Argentine wine for? For everyone who dares to try something new. Beyond the famous Malbec, and the essential red wines, Argentina produces a diversity of wines of the highest quality. Its wine amplitude is immense; there is a wine for every taste, you can choose from a spectrum from light bodied wines to robust reds. At the end, it all comes down to experiencing the magic in your glass, an endless range of flavors. What is the next step? Challenge yourself to pick your new favorite Argentine wine.

LOGO_WOFA_Fondo (2)Veronica’s session—Argentina: A Discovery Awaits—is scheduled for Wednesday, August 10th at 4:45 pm as part the 46th Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators, to be held August 10-11 in Coachella Valley (Indian Wells, CA). 

About the speaker: Veronica Kathuria, CSW, is the USA & Canada Area Manager at Wines of Argentina. In her role, she provides opportunities for U.S. wine trade professionals to learn about the diversity of Argentina’s wine and connects key players in the trade sector to the country’s new generation of agronomists and winemakers. Veronica holds a master’s degree in Wine Marketing & Management from the French INSEEC Business School.

About Wines of Argentina: Wines of Argentina is the organization in charge of promoting Argentine wine worldwide. Since 1993, it has been contributing to the global success of the national wine industry. In addition, it guides the export strategy of the sector by offering innovative actions focused on digital marketing and generating business opportunities for its members. Currently, WofA has about 180 partner wineries from all the wine regions of the country, which, in turn, export to more than 135 countries and represent 95% of the total wine exported from Argentina.

What you Probably don’t Know about Paso Robles- It’s Even Cooler than You Think!

Today we have a guest post from Jim Gerakaris, CWE. Jim gives us a preview of his upcoming presentation, “What you Probably Don’t Know about Paso Robles: It’s Even Cooler than You Think!” This session will be presented at the 46th Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators. The conference is scheduled for August 10-11 in Coachella Valley (Indian Wells, CA). 

.

.

What you Probably don’t Know about Paso Robles- It’s Even Cooler than You Think!

The dangers of being type cast are both great and frustrating. Just like actors that get cast in the same types of roles after seeing some initial success, the region of Paso Robles has been viewed in the wine world as that place that makes reliably rustic, chewy Zins that could never possibly be viewed as complex, balanced wines.  Most of the current wine literature only repeats this same narrative about Paso Robles, but a lot has been happening in this region that warrants a second look, especially over the last few decades.

Beginning with the growing of mission grapes for the production of sacramental wine at Mission San Miguel in 1797, and nearly a century later with zinfandel vineyards planted by Swiss/Italian immigrants in the 1880s to make their wine in a new land, Paso Roble’s reputation was for a big, rustic wines that are often typical of a warmer region.

.

.

This style of winemaking continued until the 1980s, when a few newcomers began to realize the potential of making quality wines from classic grape varieties like Cabernet, Syrah and other highly regarded varieties while also exploring some exciting white varieties, especially those from the Rhone Valley.

The growing conditions of Paso Robles are very different than most other California wine regions and initially, conditions like alkaline soils, and low rain levels posed challenges to defying the norms that had yielded those rustic wines. Eventually a collective knowledge began to emerge regarding where to plant vines, what kind of root stock (if any) to use and how to farm grapes with a focus on quality not quantity. This, along with the advancements in viticulture and winemaking technology seen in the last thirty years have brought about a revolution that has redefined the reputation of Paso Robles and its wines. To show how much things have changed, Zinfandel now only comprises about 6% of the total planted acreage of the region.

.

.

The knowledge that was gained over this time has changed how the growers and wineries in Paso Robles began to view the AVA and most felt that the larger AVA designation was too broad and did not describe the nuance and potential that Paso Robles has to offer. In 2007, an independent committee including scientists from Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, submitted a petition the TTB to establish 11 sub-AVAs within the larger Paso Robles AVA to better describe the region’s growing conditions. In 2014, after a thorough review of the massive amount of data presented by the committee, the petitions were approved and since then, the region has emerged in a new light.

While Paso Robles has had some great press in the last few years, mostly in periodicals and in newspapers, the established wine literature is still lagging beyond stating the 11 sub AVAs, and a wine educator still needs to dig though many sources to get a better feel for the region and its potential.

Map via: pasowine.com/paso-robles/ava/

Map via: pasowine.com/paso-robles/ava/

For instance, here are a few things you may not know about the Paso Robles AVA:

  • There are a wide range of climatic conditions from Zone II through Zone IV on the Winkler scale.
  • Average precipitation varies widely from West to East, almost 40” to 10” respectively, affecting soil composition and other growing conditions.
  • The soils are mostly calcareous and alkaline, typically 7.0 – 7.5 pH and above with about 30 distinct soil series.
  • There are 600,000 acres in the greater Paso Robles AVA (42 miles east to west and 35 miles north to south), with 40,000 acres that are planted to grapes, just slightly less than the Napa Valley.
  • Like Napa, the most planted grape variety is Cabernet Sauvignon (about 50% of total acreage planted).
  • There is a diverse planting of varieties in the region including rarities like Aglianico, Vidiano, Picpoul Blanc and Clairette Blanche as well as Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Syrah, Tempranillo, petite Sirah, Viognier, grenache blanc and Roussanne to name just a few.

To learn and see more about the dynamic and developing region of Paso Robles, join Jim Gerakaris, CWE in an exploration of the unique combination of soils, climate and culture that has brought Paso Robles into prominence while tasting a variety of wines that is bound to surprise you. Jim’s session is scheduled for Wednesday, August 10th at 4:45 pm as part the 46th Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators, to be held August 10-11 in Coachella Valley (Indian Wells, CA).

About the speaker: Jim Gerakaris is the Winery Sommelier and Wine Educator at JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery in Paso Robles, CA. He is a Certified Wine Educator since 2014 and a Certified Sommelier since 2010. Through an early introduction to Bordeaux and other European wines, Jim fed his passion for food and wine while traveling internationally during a previous career in technical sales in the semiconductor industry.  In 2003 he jumped ship and entered the wine industry in various winery hospitality positions in the Paso Robles area and has been at JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery since 2008.  Known for his ability to convey complex concepts regarding wine to both the novice and the pro in an entertaining and memorable way. Jim is a senior member of the hospitality management team with a focus on education, a part of the blending team for JUSTIN wines and a frequent winery representative for JUSTIN at dinners, conferences, and other events in the U.S. and abroad.

Welcome to the World, Upper Lake Valley AVA!

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On June 3 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Upper Lake Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA). The Upper Lake Valley AVA represents the 8th AVA located in Lake County, California.

The newly minted AVA—situated on the north shore of Clear Lake—covers a total of 17, 360 acres and is located entirely within the existing Clear Lake AVA. However, the area of the previously existing Clear Lake AVA was extended (along the northwest corner) in order to accommodate the new appellation within its boundaries.

  • According to the original petition—written by Terry Dereniuk and originally submitted in 2018 on behalf of the Growers of Upper Lake County—the distinguishing features of the Upper Lake Valley AVA include its hydrogeology, soils, and climate, as described below.
    • Hydrogeology: The area of the Upper Lake Valley AVA covers a series of valleys running north-northwesterly from the shores of Clear Lake. These valleys (and the surrounding hillsides) sit at elevations of 1,330 feet to 1,480 feet above sea level; vineyards are currently planted along the valley floors and up into the hillsides—as high as 1,450 feet asl. The area—a transitional region between the Mendocino National Forest and the Clear Lake Basin—has a uniquely high water table (the boundary between the surface and the area where groundwater saturates the soil). This allows for a high degree of dry farming.
    • Soils: The area contains a wide range of soil types, and varies decidedly between the deep, level soils of the valley floors; the thin, well-drained soils on the hillsides; and the marshy areas closest to the lake. Much of the bedrock is composed of shale and sandstone; topsoils include combinations of silt, gravel, clay, and loam.
    • Climate:  The climate of the Upper Lake Valley AVA is slightly cooler than the surrounding areas. The median growing degree days (GDD) in the new AVA ranges from a low of 2,809 to a high of 3,343; in other areas of the Clear Lake AVA, the median high climbs as high as 3,811. The Upper Lake Valley AVA is thus classified as heat summation Region III—Region I is the coolest and Region V is the warmest—according to the often-cited Winkler Scale.
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

At this time, there are sixteen commercial vineyards, just over 300 acres planted to vine, and one winery located withing the Upper Lake Valley AVA. While a range of grapes—including Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel—are grown in the area, Sauvignon Blanc is the leading variety.

Note: June 3 was a busy day for the TTB, which saw the approval of four new AVAs, including Upper Lake Valley. The other three include Rocky Reach (WA), Paulsell Valley (CA), and Mount Pisgah-Polk County (OR). When all four of these AVAs are brought into force—on July 5, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 266; of these, 146 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, Upper Lake Valley AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

California Earns another: the Paulsell Valley AVA!

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On June 3 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Paulsell Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA), located in Stanislaus County, California.

The new AVA is located in the San Joaquin Valley (Central Valley), somewhat between the town of Knights Ferry and the Modesto Reservoir. The Paulsell Valley AVA is situated to the west of the Sierra Foothills AVA and to the south of the Lodi AVA; it does not, however, overlap with any previously established viticultural area. The name Paulsell refers to a nearby unincorporated community—sometimes known as Old Paulsell Town—and the valley that runs through it, carved by Dry Creek

  • According to the original petition—originally submitted in 2018 by Patrick L. Shabram on behalf of the grape growers in the area—the distinguishing features of the Paulsell Valley AVA include its topography, soils, and climate, as described below.
    • Topography: The landscape within the new AVA consists mainly of rolling hills interspersed with water-carved channels and steep, isolated hills known as intermounds. This type of landscape is known as mound-intermound relief and is unique to the area (as compared with the surrounding landscape). Elevations in the Paulsell AVA range from 140 to 612 feet asl. The numerous slopes allow for excellent drainage, while the isolated patches of higher elevation (located towards the top of the intermounds) allow for long hours of sun exposure.
    • Soils: The soils of the Paulsell Valley AVA consist mainly of volcanic tuff (a sedimentary soil created via the compaction of volcanic ash and bits of igneous rock) and alluvial deposits. In some spots, the topsoil contains cobbles—small rocks typically defined as being 2.5 to 10 inches in diameter, sometimes referred to as cobblestones—remnants of significant flooding.
    • Climate: The climate of the Paulsell Valley AVA is slightly warmer than the areas that surround it, and slightly drier than the area within the Sierra Foothills AVA. The (average) temperature within the new AVA is well above 4100 growing degrees days (GDD); by any accounts this is a warm, dry, inland area well-suited to the cultivation of hardy red grapes.
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

The Paulsell Valley AVA—covering a total area of 34,155 acres—contains three commercial vineyards and approximately 826 acres planted to vine (with more planned for the future). The leading grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Petite Sirah.

Note: June 3 was a busy day for the TTB, which saw the approval of four new AVAs, including Paulsell Valley. The other three include Rocky Reach (WA), Upper Lake Valley (CA), and Mount Pisgah-Polk County (OR). When all four of these AVAs are brought into force—on July 5, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 266; of these, 146 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, Paulsell Valley AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the world, Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA!

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On June 3 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County American Viticultural Area (AVA), located in Oregon. The newly minted AVA is located entirely within the existing Willamette Valley AVA and represents the 23rd AVA located in Oregon. With the approval of the new AVA, the Willamette Valley AVA now has 11 sub-appellations.

The Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA covers a total of 5,850 acres surrounding the 835-foot summit of Mount Pisgah, located about 15 miles west of Salem (and just south of the town of Dallas, Oregon).

  • According to the petition to establish the appellation—originally submitted in 2018—the distinguishing features of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA include its topography, climate, and soils, as described below.
    • Topography: The new AVA is located within a chain of small hills in the Willamette Valley area. Elevations range from 260 feet to 835 feet asl (at the peak of Mount Pisgah); the areas surrounding the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA are all at lower elevations.
    • Climate: The Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA is somewhat cooler than the surrounding valley floor. The average annual growing degree days (GDD) for Mount Pisgah total 2,543 GDD; the surrounding areas total 2,661 GDD (in the tow of McMinnville, to the south) and 2,903 GD (in the town of Salem, to the east).
    • Soils: Like much of the surrounding area, the dominant soil of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA is sedimentary in nature (to include sandstone and siltstone). While the remainder of the Willamette Valley AVA has a large percentage of soils derived from the Missoula Floods, in the new AVA only 2.1% of the area is so affected. Rather, due to the higher elevation of the area, the soils of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA contain a high percentage of volcanic rocks that were part of an ancient seabed. These rocks are among the oldest rocks within the Willamette Valley, and the Mount Pisgah area is the only spot in the Willamette Valley that combines sedimentary soils with such ancient parent material.
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

At the time of the original petition, there were 10 commercial vineyards (planted to a total of 531 acres of vines) and 2 wineries—Amelie Robert Estate and Ilahe Vineyards—located within the area of the Mount Pisgah-Polk Count AVA. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay are the leading grape varieties.

Note: The official name of the new AVA reads as follows: Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon AVA. The name includes the name of the county as there are at least three locations in Oregon named Mount Pisgah. As other states also have areas named Mount Pisgah, the term Oregon is also part of the official name of the AVA.

Welcome to the world, Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA!

On another note: June 3 was a busy day for the TTB, which saw the approval of four new AVAs, including Mount Pisgah. The other three include Rocky Reach (WA), Upper Lake Valley (CA), and Paulsell Valley (CA). When all four of these AVAs are brought into force—on July 5, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 266.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Rocky Reach AVA!

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On June 3 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Rocky Reach American Viticultural Area (AVA)., located in portions of Chelan and Douglas Counties in Washington State. The newly minted AVA is located entirely within the existing Columbia Valley AVA and represents the 20th AVA located in Washington State.

The Rocky Reach AVA covers a long, narrow strip of land that straddles a portion of the Columbia River. This stretch of the Columbia River consists of a deep canyon between two sets of rolling hills (the foothills of the Cascade Mountains to the west and Badger Mountain to the east). The new AVA is situated between the Lake Chelan AVA (located a few miles to the north) and the Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley AVA (located a few miles to the southeast).

  • According to the petition to establish the appellation—originally submitted in 2018 by Kevin Pogue PhD, Professor of Geology at Whitman College—the distinguishing features of the Rocky Reach AVA include its topography, soils, and climate, as described below.
    • Topography: The area within the Rocky Reach AVA consists of a deep canyon eroded over time by the rapids of the Columbia River. The prime vineyard areas are located along flat-topped terraces that line either side of the river.
    • Soils: Loess (windblown sand and silt) is the leading soil type of the Rocky Reach AVA and other parts of the Columbia Valley. However, unlike the surrounding areas, the soils in the Rocky Reach AVA are topped with gravel and cobblestones. The bedrock of the region is also unique—in the Rocky Reach and Lake Chelan AVAs, the bedrock is silica-rich sedimentary rock. This type of bedrock soil is unique, as most of the surrounding vineyard areas are composed of basalt bedrock.
    • Climate: The deep canyon of the Rocky Reach AVA sits at an elevation that is considerably lower than the surrounding areas. As such, the area within the AVA is significantly warmer, resulting in a longer growing season than the surrounding areas.
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

At the time of the proposal, there were 7 commercial vineyards within the area defined by the Rocky Reach AVA with a total of 117 acres planted to vine. Cabernet Sauvignon is the leading grape variety.

The name Rocky Reach has been applied to this section of the Columbia River since the 1800s. In those days, steamboat captains used the term to describe the 8-mile-an-hour rapids that formed certain times of the year. Successful navigation of the rocky reach required staying within the deepest channel of the river to avoid the rocks just beneath the surface of the water.

Note: June 3 was a busy day for the TTB, which saw the approval of four new AVAs, including Rocky Reach. The other three include Upper Lake Valley (Lake County, CA), Mount Pisgah (Polk Country, OR), and Paulsell Valley (Stanislaus County, CA).  When all four of these AVAs are brought into force—on July 5, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 266.

Welcome to the world, Rocky Reach AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta!

Photo via: www.abadia-retuerta.com

Photo via: www.abadia-retuerta.com

On May 31 (2022) the Official Journal of the European Union announced the approval of a new PDO wine region for Spain: Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta.

The newly approved appellation is located in the municipality of Sardón de Duero (Valladolid), in the autonomous community of Castilla y León. Sardón de Duero is situated just to the west of the Ribera del Duero DO. This section of the Duero River has long been considered to be an ideal area for vineyards as part of the informally recognized Milla de Oro (Golden Mile) of wine estates in the area.

The Abadía Retuerta estate is built on the site of the Abbey of Santa María de Retuerta— founded in 1146 by Sancho Ansúrez near the banks of the Duero River. Some parts of the original structure still stand and are considered to be among the most important works of Romanesque architecture in the area.

The Abadía Retuerta estate currently includes a winery, hotel, the Santuario Wellness Spa, and several restaurants. In addition to Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta, the estate produces a range of varietal and blended wines under the Vino la Tierra de Castilla y León appellation as well as food products such as pine nuts and honey.

The Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta is approved for dry red wines (monovarietal or blends) produced from Petit Verdot, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Garnacha Tinta, Malbec, Merlot, Graciano, Syrah, and/or Pinot Noir. All red wines must be matured in oak barrels for at least six months. Dry white wines—monovarietal or blends—may be made with Albillo Mayor, Godello, Verdejo, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and/or Gewürztraminer.

P.S. On this same day (May 31, 2022), the EU also announced the approval of the Vino de Pago Bolandin, located in Navarra. You can read more about the Vino de Pago Bolandin here. With the approval of these two new appellations, there are currently 24 vino de pago appellations in Spain (per the EU).

Welcome to the World, Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Vino de Pago Bolandin!

Photo via: pagodecirsus.com

Photo via: pagodecirsus.com

On May 31 (2022) the Official Journal of the European Union announced the approval of a new PDO wine region for Spain: Vino de Pago Bolandin.

The newly approved appellation is located in the autonomous community of Navarra, within the municipality of Ablitas. The area is very close to the southern edge of Navarra, to the east of La Rioja and close to the border shared with Aragon. This places it within the Ribera Baja sub-region of the Navarra DO. 

The 130-hecatare/320-acre Bolandin Vineyard is part of Bodega Pago de Cirsus, which operates a winery, restaurant, and hotel on the estate. Bodega Pago de Cirsus produces a wide range of products, to include (in addition to Vino de Pago Bolandin) olive oil, white truffle oil, and table wines bottled under the DO Navarra.

The climate of the estate—which sits between the Ebro River and the Moncayo Mountains at an average elevation of 395 meters/1,295 feet above sea level—may be described as “extreme continental,” meaning it tends to experience very cold winters and hot, dry summers. The estate benefits from the Cierzo—a strong dry wind that flows to the northwest from the Ebro River Valley—as well as a series of nearby reservoirs that provide water for irrigation as needed.

The Vino de Pago Bolandin appellation is approved for dry red wines and dry white wines; the main grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Sweet white wines—produced using late harvest (sobremadurada) Moscatel Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) grapes and containing a minimum of 45 g/L residual sugar—are also allowed.

Welcome to the world, Vino de Pago Bolandin!

P.S. On this same day (May 31, 2022), the EU also announced the approval of the Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta, located in Castilla y León. You can read more about the Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta here. If we include these two newly-approved appellations, there are currently 24 vino de pago appellations in Spain (per the EU).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

A Walk on the Wild Side: A New Look at Lambrusco by Alan Tardi, CSW

.

.

Today we have a guest post from Alan Tardi, CSW. Alan gives us a deep dive in the real Lambrusco as well as a preview of his upcoming session—A Walk on the Wild Side: A New Look at Lambrusco—to be presented at the 46th Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators. The conference is scheduled for August 10-11 in Coachella Valley (Indian Wells, CA).  

If you think Lambrusco is nothing more than a banal, reddish, cloyingly sweet bubbly, it’s time to taste again.                                             

It happened over and over again: The first wines of a given appellation to be exported to America from post-World War II Italy were the most commercial, inexpensive, readily accessible ones possible. Some of them became quite popular, though it was often more about an appealing name or jingle or the color or shape of the bottle than it was about the wine.

.

.

In the 1960s and ‘70s, Americans started to become more familiar with and attracted to wine. At about the same time, a handful or two of visionary Italian wine producers began focusing on attaining a high-quality level of production and capturing the essence of their particular grape varieties and growing areas.

There are numerous examples of this but one of the best is Tuscany, specifically Chianti.

Prior to this time, the majority of consumers looked (often fondly) upon Chianti as a cheap, rustic wine in a straw-covered flask sitting on a checkered tablecloth next to a bowl of spaghetti and meatballs. Then it got a makeover, shed its straw, slimmed down into a Bordeaux-like cylinder and became super, sexy and more expensive. Many other wines underwent a similar transformation (think Barolo, Valpolicella, Friuli whites, Southern reds) and subsequently garnered respect and appreciation in the marketplace.

This has not happened to Lambrusco. But it should and I have no doubt that it will. Here’s why:

  • Unique Terroir:
    • Lambrusco is a terroir-driven wine. It grows in a very limited part of North-Central Italy, specifically a small area in the center of Emilia with a tiny adjacent zone just across the Lombardy border.
    • The area where Lambrusco grows is quite unusual. While most grapevines perform best at higher altitudes up on steep slopes, Lambrusco prefers the flat plains or low hills of the Po River valley.
  • Ancient Origin:
    • Lambrusco is considered to be one of (if not the) oldest native Italian grape varieties, with its origin dating back to sometime around the Middle Bronze Age (c 1700 BC).
    • It is thought to have originated as a wild vine that was domesticated by a mysterious group of people who inhabited the western part of the Po valley around what is now the city of Modena.
  • Family of Grapes:
    • In fact, Lambrusco is not a grape variety but a family of grapevines that are closely related to one another but genetically distinct.
    • Thus, while they do have some basic characteristics in common, each one has its own distinct personality, and each has its own home within the larger perimeter of the defined growing area.
  • Variations on a Theme: In addition to the numerus subvarieties, there are many different production options:
    • Lambrusco may be made from one type of Lambrusco grape or blended with others, depending on appellation regulations.
    • There are a number of specific Lambrusco appellations as well as other generic regional appellations that include a Lambrusco-based wine.
    • Lambrusco runs the full gambit of sugar, from brut nature (no added sugar) to sweet.
    • It can be made frizzante (lightly fizzy) or full bubbly (spumante), using the Traditional Method (in bottle with disgorgement), Ancestral Method (in bottle without disgorgement) or Martinotti Method (tank).
    • Time on lees can range anywhere from days to years. And color ranges from pale pink to deep purple.
  • Food Friendly:
    • Emilia is considered to have one of the finest regional cuisines in Italy. The food is rich and full-flavored, and Lambrusco — whether fizzy or foamy, delicately pale and tart or dark, earthy, and tannic — provides the perfect accompaniment.
    • These same basic characteristics also make it an ideal partner for many other types of food, from pizza to barbeque, burgers, spicy Asian or Indian.
  • User Friendly: Lambrusco is
    • versatile
    • bubbly
    • relatively low in alcohol
    • very affordable
    • fun and enjoyable; sometimes simple and rustic, other times elegant or ethereal
    • undervalued and misunderstood (except by those in the know)
  • Decidedly Distinctive:
    • There is nothing quite like Lambrusco. It has its own unique flavor profile — earthy yet elegant, with a slightly wild streak — regardless of which guise it is wearing.
    • It is red (in various hues) and bubbly (in different levels of intensity) and has tannin. It is, one could say, something of an appealing anomaly.
.

.

Alan’s session—A Walk on the Wild Side: A New Look at Lambrusco—is scheduled for Wednesday, August 10th at 8:45 am as part the 46th Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators, to be held August 10-11 in Coachella Valley (Indian Wells, CA). Click here to read about the extraordinary wines—as well as a few other treats that will be tasted as part of Alan’s session.

About the speaker: Alan Tardi first got interested in wine while working as a cook and chef in some of New York City’s finest restaurants and this interest blossomed into a passion when he opened his own restaurant in Manhattan in 2001. While still working long hours in his restaurant, Alan became a frequent panel taster at Wine and Spirits Magazine’s New York office and began writing for the magazine. Over time he went on to write for numerous other publications including The New York Times, Sommelier Journal, Food Arts and Wine Spectator. In 2003 Alan moved to the village of Castiglione Falletto in Piemonte, Italy where he worked extensively in the surrounding vineyards and wineries and managed the town’s Cantina Comunale. His first book “Romancing the Vine: Life, Love and Transformation in the Vineyards of Barolo” won a James Beard Award for Best Wine Book of 2006. His second book “Champagne, Uncorked: The House of Krug and Timeless Allure of the World’s Most Celebrated Drink” (2016) received a Gourmand Best in the World Award. Alan holds a CSW from the Society of Wine Educators, IWS and Champagne Master certificates from the Wine Scholar Guild and is currently pursuing the WSET level 4 Diploma.